CedarCreek's tale of two vintages

Photo: Winemaker Taylor Whelan

The latest releases from CedarCreek Estate Winery offer a glimpse of the two most recent Okanagan vintages, at least from one producer. CedarCreek is one of the veteran Kelowna area wineries. It opened in 1980 as Uniacke and was renamed after Ross Fitzpatrick, the former senator, bought it in 1986. The winery changed hands again in a friendly transaction in 2014 when Mission Hill proprietor Anthony von Mandl bought it.

His investment enabled CedarCreek to improve its production facility and to build new hospitality facilities. The restaurant at the winery now is one of the best in the Okanagan. One thing that has not change is the winemaker. Campbell River-born Taylor Whelan had joined as assistant winemaker in 2012 and was promoted to head winemaker several years later. Under his hand, CedarCreek has transitioned its vineyards to organic production.

The two vintages in question are a dramatic contrast. The winery says this of 2021: “An extremely dry, warm start to the year with a cool and wet spell in early June. Unprecedented mid-summer heat leading to the earliest start of harvest on record and the highest number of growing degree days on record.”

Here is the assessment of 2022: “The year began with a cool and wet spring, with significant precipitation in April/May and the latest budbreak in the last ten years. However, July and August became quite warm, allowing ripening to make up for lost time; and September and October were unseasonably warm, extending our summer season by several weeks. The result was wines low in alcohol but rich in flavour and with very good phenolic ripeness in general.”

In my experience with wines from those vintages, the 2021 wines are surprisingly good (unless there is any smoke taint) while the 2022 are showing themselves to be outstanding. I found no smoke taint in either of the 2021 wines, likely because the grapes were sourced from vineyards where smoke was not a significant issue. As well, Taylor would have handled the fruit carefully (limiting skin contact during fermentation) to mitigate any risk.

Here are notes on these six wines from the winery’s good value estate range.

CedarCreek Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($N/A). This wine was fermented and aged three months in stainless steel. Zesty and refreshing, the wine has aromas of fresh herbs and gooseberry that are reflected on the palate. The finish is dry. 92.

CedarCreek Estate Riesling 2022 ($N/A). This wine was fermented and aged three months in stainless steel. Moderate in alcohol (12.5%), the wine’s bright acidity of 10.8 grams a litre is well-balanced with 18 grams of residual sugar. The wine begins with citrus aromas mingled with a hint of mango. On the palate, there are flavours of pink grapefruit and nectarine. The balance is exquisite and the finish lingers. 93.

CedarCreek Estate Pinot Gris 2022 ($25). This wine was fermented in stainless steel and an oak foudre; and aged three months on the lees in stainless steel. Another three months of bottle age are recommended to allow the wine to express all of its character. At this early stage in its life, it has aromas and flavours of pear and peach. It is dry, with a lingering finish. 91.

CedarCreek Estate Pinot Noir Rosé 2022 ($26). This dry rosé was fermented in stainless steel and aged four months on the lees. Fashionably pale in colour, the wine is crisp and refreshing. There are aromas and flavours of raspberry and cherry. 90.

CedarCreek Pinot Noir 2021 ($32). This wine was fermented in concrete and in a foudre with indigenous yeast. It was aged 12 months in French oak. The medium-bodied wine has aromas and flavours of dark cherry mingled with toasted oak and hints of forest floor on the finish. 90.

CedarCreek Meritage 2021 ($30). The blend is 55% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc, 9% Malbec and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged 15 months in French oak. The wine begins with aromas of blackberry, cherry and blueberry. There are layers of dark berries on the palate, with a note of spice on the finish. 91.