Okanagan Falls wineries strut their wines

Photo: Blasted Church vineyard overlooks Skaha Lake

The wineries in the Okanagan Falls sub-appellation bill themselves as The Heart of the Wine Country. Hats off to whoever came up with that clever tag line for the cluster of wineries around of close to Skaha Lake. Fifteen wineries from that group recently presented their wines at a spring release tasting in Vancouver – the first major Vancouver tasting of the season. There are about 25 wineries in this sub-appellation, depending on where the borders are drawn. Those wineries not at the tasting would have assorted reasons for their absence. At least two wineries were so badly impacted by smoke taint in 2021 that they released no wines from that vintage.

There were wines from 2020 and 2022 at the Vancouver tasting. I detected no smoke taint in the 2021 wines on offer, perhaps with one exception; in that case, the toasty flavour was negligible. Most of the 2021s were very good indeed. In a normal year, the terroir of this sub-appellation produces quality grapes. The 2022 vintage was a case in point: a big harvest of quality fruit. A note of caution: it obviously is too early to talk about the quality of 2023; but the quantity will clearly be down. There has been serious winter damage, although less so in the Okanagan Falls than further south where there was less climate moderation, if any, from lake effect.

I only had the time (and stamina) to taste at half of the tables at the Okanagan Falls tasting. I also skipped some first rate wineries that generally send me samples (Meyer Family Vineyards, Mayhem Wines and Stag’s Hollow Winery). But here are notes from the tables where I was able to stop.

Black Market Wine Company This is one of four wineries in the Kaleden region, a region that deserves to have its own sub-appellation. Owners Rob Hammersley and Michelle Shewchuk (above) operated Black Market for six years as a virtual winery until they were able to buy a 4 ½-acre producing Conviction Ridge Vineyard near Kaleden, planted to Bacchus, Merlot, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. Rob was going to pull out the Bacchus until he discovered how popular and versatile the varietal is. 2021 Nothing To Declare ($35 for 785 bottles). This is an ancestral method sparkling wine made with Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The wine was fermented with natural yeast, bottled before it had finished primary fermentation, and left on the lees 4 months before being disgorged. The wine is delicious: crisp with flavours of crab apples and strawberries. The mousse is lively. 90. 2022 Bacchus ($24 for 225 cases). This is a lively wine with tropical fruits in the aroma and on the palate. The finish is crisp and refreshing. 92. 2022 Omerta Cabernet Franc Rosé ($26 for 200 cases). Delicately pink in hue, the wine has aromas and flavours of strawberry, rhubarb and pomegranate. The finish is crisp and refreshing. 90. 2020 Syrah ($35 for 136 cases). This wine, which was aged 21 months in French and American barrels, is made with fruit from an Osoyoos grower. There is pepper on the nose and the palate, along with flavours mingling cola, cherry and deli meats. 91. 2020 Syndicate ($35 for 250 cases). This is the winery’s flagship Bordeaux blend made with Merlot (38%), Cabernet Franc (28%), Petit Verdot (17%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (17%), with fruit from Kaleden, Oliver and Osoyoos. Each varietal was fermented separately and aged 21 months in French oak (40% new). It is a bold, rich wine with aromas and flavours of black currant, dark cherry and chocolate. 92.

Blasted Church Vineyards

This winery, which opened in 2000, anchors a western-sloping vineyard on a height of land overlooking Skaha Lake. While that vineyard supplies much of the fruit for Blasted Church, the winery also sources grapes from growers in the Okanagan and Similkameen Valley. Winemaker Evan Saunders (above) produces one of the largest and most interesting portfolios in British Columbia. 2020 Hatfield’s Fuse ($20 for 5,400 cases). This is likely the winery’s most popular white. It is a very complex blend: 36% Viognier, 16% Orange Muscat, 12% Chardonnay Musqué, 9% Sauvignon Blanc, 8% Chardonnay, 7% Pinot Blanc, 6% Pinot Gris, 4% Gewurztraminer, 2% Riesling. Not surprisingly, it is a fruit bomb – tropical flavours explode on the palate. The finish is crisp and lingering. 90. 2022 Viognier ($24). Some 30% of this fermented in new French oak, which is nicely integrated with the medley of stone fruits and tropical fruits on the palate. 92. 2018 Merlot ($34 for 932 cases). There is five per cent Malbec in this blend. After a long maceration on skins, the wine was aged in barrel for 20 months. It has aromas and flavours of plum, blackberry and spice. 90. 2019 Syrah ($32). The wine begins with floral aromas mingled with pepper, echoed on the palate with flavours of spice, fig and plum. 91. 2018 Small Blessings Cross to Bear ($40 for 200 cases). This is 100% Cabernet Franc, with fruit from four vineyards. The wine was aged 22 months in barrel, primarily French. The wine has aromas of blackberry and coffee that leads to flavours of blackberry, raspberry and plum. The tannins still have enough grip to suggest aging this wine in bottle a few more years. 92. 2021 Small Blessings Mourvèdre Syrah Grenache ($40 for 300 cases). The varietals were co-fermented and aged in barrel (third fill, fourth fill and neutral) for 16 months. The wine is fresh and juicy, with aromas of red berries and flavours cherry, plum and spice. 92.

Bonamici Cellars

In 2012, winemaker Philip Soo partnered with wine marketer Mario Rodi (above) to found Bonamici Cellars. It operated as a virtual winery until they bought property in 2016 on Rolling Hills Road, south of Okanagan Falls. Here, they have planted a vineyard and opened a winery and tasting room. 2021 Pinot Grigio ($20). Crisp, fresh and fruity in the style appropriate to Grigio. There are aromas and flavours of pear and citrus. 90. 2021 Rosé ($22). This is a blend of 40% Merlot and 30% each of Cabernet Franc and Barbera. Delicate in colour, the wine is packed with flavours of cherry and plum. 91. 2019 Merlot Cabernet Franc (Wine club only). This is 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc. The aromas and flavours are intense, delivering cassis and dark fruit with an appealing hint of cloves on the finish. 91. 2020 Belviaggio ($45). The winery’s flagship red, this is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese. Once again, there are clove flavours on the palate mingled with dark fruit. 91.

Lakeboat Vineyard & Winery

Calgarian Tara Matheson and winemaker Mireille Sauvé (above) opened this Kaleden winery in 2022 after salvaging the former winery on this property – Topshelf Winery which had struggled ever since opening in 2011. The vineyard has been renovated and expanded; a well-equipped processing facility has been added, along with a sunny tasting room. The best news is that the wines are very well made. 2021 Pinot Gris ($21.95). Crisp in texture, this has aromas and flavours of pears and peaches mingled with Granny Smith apples. 91. 2021 Chardonnay ($26.95). Very subtly oaked, this wine has a creamy texture but manages to be crisp and refreshing. The orchard fruit flavours linger on the long finish. 91. 2020 Pinot Noir ($29.95). This is a seductive wine with aromas and flavours of red cherry and strawberry. 92.

Liquidity Wines

This winery (above) was established in 2008 but a group of Vancouver and Calgary business people. A tasting room and a bistro opened in 2013. The winery was acquired several years ago by Mission Hill’s Anthony von Mandl. Last summer, he installed a New Zealand-born and trained winemaker, Amy Paynter. She succeeded Alison Moyes who had moved to Red Rooster Winery. The strength of these wines is a credit to the ability of both winemakers. 2022 Rosé of Pinot Noir ($30 for 575 cases). This wine was fermented 70% in stainless steel and 30% in a concrete tulip, adding texture. Delicately pink in hue, the wine has flavours of strawberry mingled with a hint of grapefruit. On the palate, the wine is fresh and zesty. 92. 2021 Estate Viognier ($30 for 630 cases). This is a wine with a laser-like focus that makes the palate site up and take notice. There are aromas and flavours of stone fruits. The finish is crisp and lingering at the same time. Fermented in stainless steel and French oak, this is a complex and delicious wine. 93. 2020 Reserve Chardonnay ($55 for 350 cases). Fermented in French oak, this is an elegant wine with aromas and flavours that mingle citrus and peach with vanilla. 92. 2020 Estate Pinot Noir ($35). There are dark cherry flavours mingled with blackberry and spice. The wine has classic silken textures. 92.

Nighthawk Vineyards

This winery was opened in 2015 by Daniel and Christy Bibby. Their son, Dakota, took over the cellar a few years later from a consulting winemaker. The winery and the vineyard are on Green Lake Road, perhaps a bit off the beaten path for wine touring. The wines and the lakeside locale (above) are worth the trip. 2020 Lux de Vinea ($38). This is a traditional method sparkling wine that is 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. It was aged on lees for 21 months. The wine is crisp and dry, with a brioche note in the aroma and with flavours of citrus. The Latin name means “light of the vineyard.” 91. 2018 Gewürztraminer ($21). This is a concentrated Alsace-style Gewürztraminer with aromas and flavours of lichee and ginger. 90. 2022 Rosé ($N/A). This is 100% Pinot Noir. The juice was on the skins for 12 hours, extracting a delicate pink hue. The wine has delicious flavours of strawberry and raspberry, with a lingering finish. 91. 2018 Cabernet Franc ($36). The wine was aged 18 months in French oak (35% new). It has aromas and flavours of black currant, blueberry and chocolate. 88.

Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery

Winery owners and former Calgarians Jim and Leslie D’Andrea will be celebrating Noble Ridge’s 20th vintage this year. The winery takes its name from the hilltop Okanagan Falls property the D’Andreas bought in 2001 after an extensive search in France and Ontario for vineyard properties. The 25-acre hilltop (above) was already growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. They added Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. In 2006, they acquired a second vineyard across the road. NV The Fizzy One Frizzante ($18). This is an unassuming but delicious bubbly made with 62% Kerner and 38% Pinot Gris. The wine has loads of tropical fruit aromas and flavours. 2021 Stony Knoll Chardonnay ($N/A). The technical specifications are not yet on the Noble Ridge website. The previous vintage, now sold out, was fermented almost entirely in stainless steel. There seems to be a little more oak here, with vanilla complementing the mandarin orange flavours. 90. 2021 Noble Ridge Meritage ($26.99 for 2,500 cases). This is a blend of 69% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% each of Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The wine was aged 12 months in barrel (24% new). The wine is bold, even intense, with aromas and flavours of black currant, dark cherry, plum and dark chocolate. 90.