Writer and wine columnist John Schreiner is Canada's most prolific author of books on wine.
Wednesday, October 19, 2022
Renaissance at Stag's Hollow Winery
Photo: Winemaker Keira Lefranc
Stag’s Hollow Winery released these six wines in two lots during the past month or so. I would guess the two Renaissance wine were held back a month or so until winemaker Keira Lefranc thought they were ready.
I nominated the winery’s Renaissance Merlot as the collectible Stag’s Hollow red in my 2017 book, Icon: Flagship Wines from British Columbia’s Best Wineries.
“Renaissance is the name we have given to our premium wines,” I quote the winery’s explanation. “The decision for what wines can be assigned to the Renaissance program is made in the cellar, based on the quality of wines in the best barrels from a vintage. Not necessarily made every vintage, our Renaissance wines are made in small lots only, and are meant to be tucked away in your cellar for two to five years.”
When I was researching wines for that book, Stag’s Hollow had not begun to make its mark with consistently top flight Pinot Noirs and Syrahs. The winery had a long history with Merlot, however. Larry Gerelus, the owner at the time, and Dwight Sick, the former winemaker, took me through an extensive tasting of Merlot wines beginning with the 1999 vintage. That tasting was a convincing case for the age-ability of the winery’s Merlots.
If I were to research a sequel to Icon, Pinot Noir and Syrah might well be recommended.
Here are notes on the wines.
Stag’s Hollow Blanc de Noirs 2021 ($25 for 80 cases). This is 100% Pinot Noir. The wine has made several vintages of a white (actually blush) Pinot Noir with fruit from young vines. The winery’s notes hint that, from now on, the fruit will go into estate Pinot Noir. The grapes were pressed whole cluster and the juice was separated quickly from the skins, presumably as a precaution against picking up any smoke affect that might have been on the skins. This wine begins with delicate fruity aromas. On the palate, notes of wild strawberry mingle with slight minerality. The finish is dry. 91.
Stag’s Hollow Merlot 2020 ($27 for 374 cases). The fruit is from the winery’s west-facing Parsons Vineyard on the Skaha Bench. The vines were in their third leaf in 2020. The wine begins with aromas of blackberry, blueberry and cherry which are echoed on the palate. There is a touch of grip here, suggesting the wine will benefit from being decanted. 91.
Stag’s Hollow Syrah 2020 ($30 for 305 cases). There is 8.3% Viognier in this wine, co-fermented with the Syrah. It begins with aromas of violets. The palate is generous, with savoury flavours of black cherry, fig. A hint of black pepper carries through on the long finish. 91.
Stag’s Hollow Dolcetto 2019 ($25 for 467 cases). This wine presents in the glass with an electric purple hue, leading to aromas of cherry mingled with notes of spice and earth. Dry on the palate, the wine has flavours of cherry and blackberry with a tangy cranberry note on the finish. 91.
Stag’s Hollow Renaissance Pinot Noir 2020 ($42 for 100 cases, 36 magnums). Each clone in this wine (667, Pommard and 115) was fermented, pressed and put into French oak separately. The wine was blended after aging 13 months in barrels. The wine begins with aromas of cherry, strawberry and spice. The palate is silky with flavours of cherry and pomegranate. This elegant Pinot Noir dances across the palate to a long finish. 92.
Stag’s Hollow Renaissance Syrah 2020 ($42 for 100 cases, 48 magnums). The Syrah fruit is from a long-time Stag’s Hollow grower, the Amalia Vineyard which is on the Osoyoos West Bench. There is 4.9% Viognier in the wine from a Penticton vineyard. The wine was aged 18 months in French oak (30% new). This superb wine begins with aromas of pepper and dark fruits. On the palate, the wine has flavours of cherry, fig and deli meats with spice and sage on the long finish. 94.
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