Pentâge grows nineteen varietals

Photo: Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie

In their two Penticton area vineyards, Pentâge Winery owners Julie Rennie and Paul Gardner grow 19 different varietals in 35 acres. It would be difficult to find another Okanagan producer with as many varietals, perhaps with the exception of Moon Curser Vineyards of Osoyoos. Having that many varietals speaks to the viticultural curiosity of the winery owners. It also says something of the Okanagan’s versatility as a grape-growing area. It would be hard to find a wine region in the world with more varietals – likely more than 100 – in such a small area. That frustrates some wine critics who think the Okanagan needs to settle on a signature varietal. But it pleases consumers who prefer novelty to same-old. As great as their Sauvignon Blancs are, New Zealand wine consumers surely must get a bit bored.

Paul Gardner, who is also the winemaker at Pentâge, gets to work with varietals that usually are found in different countries in the Old World. His Hiatus Red blend makes the point. The grapes in the blend are more often found in Spain (Tempranillo), the Rhône (Mourvedre, Petite Sirah), Bordeaux (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot). Paul grows these in his two vineyards near the winery. The winery’s recent releases touch on other Old World sources: Pinot Gris is found in Alsace; Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire; and Roussanne and Marsanne grow in the Rhône. There is nothing boring about the wine offerings from Pentâge.

The winery itself is an experience to visit. Paul spent 10 years digging a 5,000-square-foot cave into the natural rock of the mountain side. Even if a tour is not always available, there is a great view of the cellar through glass of the massive northern-facing doors. The winery’s tasting and sales room is in a separate building.

Here are notes on the wines.

Pentâge Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($20). Both the aromas and the flavours of this wine have a sit-up and take notice intensity. There is lime and grapefruit on the nose, leading to flavours of lime and passionfruit. Bright acidity gives the wine a zesty, refreshing finish. 91.

Pentâge Pinot Gris 2019 ($19.13). Four different fermentations in stainless steel enable Paul to craft a complex Pinot Gris. This wine begins with aromas of and spice. Richly textured, it has flavours of ripe pear, apple and guava. 91.

Pentâge Roussanne/Marsanne 2016 ($30.44). This is 70% Roussanne and 30% Marsanne. Fermentation began in stainless steel, with 50% of the wine then transferred to French oak (second and third fill). The latter portion also went through malolactic fermentation. The wine is rich and complex, beginning with aromas of ripe pineapple. On the palate, there are flavours of stone fruits, pineapple and citrus. 91.

Pentâge Hiatus Red 2016 ($23.48). This is a blend of 36% Petite Sirah, 32% Tempranillo, 10% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Mourvedre and 7% Merlot. The winemaking for this was incredibly complex. Each varietal was fermented and barrel-aged separately for 18 months in new and neutral American and French oak before the final blend was assembled. The wine begins with aromas of cassis, cherries and raspberries. On the palate, there is a medley of fruits including cherry, black currant, plum. The finish is marked with spice and chocolate. 91.