Bordertown champions Cabernet Franc

Photo: Bordertown's Mohan Gill

Cabernet Franc is the fourth-most planted red varietal in British Columbia, at 12% of all the reds compared with the leader, Merlot, at 28%. With many wineries, Cabernet Franc has played a supporting role in blends with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, in common with the practices of French and American vintners.

But Bordertown Vineyards and Estate Winery in Osoyoos has hung its hat on Cabernet Franc. Proprietor Mohan Gill has 35 acres of Cabernet Franc, representing 38% of Bordertown’s total vineyards. The first plantings were done in 2009, with additional acreage added through to 2020. The winery produced 7,000 cases of this varietal in 2021.

“Mohan chose Cabernet Franc as the flagship red and cornerstone product for the winery due to the perceived growing demand for this varietal at the time, and the fact that it grows exceptionally well in the south Okanagan,” explains Paul Jordan, Bordertown’s wine representative in Vancouver. “He appears to have chosen wisely, as this product is highly recognized and a best seller.” Bordertown is one of the Okanagan’s largest producers of single varietal Cabernet Franc and likely has a competitive edge as consumer interest in this wine has grown.

“It certainly was the wine that I keyed in on when I first took on agency representation of the winery,” Paul says. “I knew that it would be the basis upon which we would grow the business. I felt that the winery needed at least one recognizable wine that consumers would associate as being of high quality, which would then spread by reputation to the other wines available.” The Bordertown Cabernet Franc is listed by the Liquor Distribution Branch and is available in more than 125 stores. Here are notes on that wine and other recent releases from Bordertown.

Bordertown Dry Riesling 2021 ($18). The wine begins with aromas of lemon and guava. On the palate, it delivers lemon and grapefruit flavours around a spine of minerals. The finish is dry but also tangy and refreshing. 89.

Bordertown Rosé 2021 ($23). This is a Cabernet Franc rosé made in what the winery calls the “classic French Provence style” – which means delicately pale. The wine begins with aromas of wild strawberry. Given the pale hue, the flavours take one by surprise – luscious in texture, tasting of strawberry and watermelon. 90.

Bordertown Desert Sage Big Red 2020 ($20). This is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This is a juicy, easy drinking red with aromas and flavours dark cherry, black currant and plum. There is a long finish with a touch of spice. 90.

Bordertown Cabernet Franc 2019 ($25 for 4,988 cases). This wine is packed full of the classic brambly characters of Cabernet Franc. The wine begins with aromas of cherry, cassis and spice. On the palate, there are flavours of blackberry, cherry and raspberry, with a hint of coffee, licorice and oak. 93.

Bordertown Living Desert Red 2018 ($27 for 995 cases). This concentrated, cellar-worthy wine is a blend of six red varietals: 28% Syrah, 22% Cabernet Franc, 22% Malbec, 12% Petit Verdot, 9% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine has aromas of plum, fig, coffee and dark chocolate. Decanting is recommended to bring out the black cherry and black currant notes. 92.

Bordertown Cabernet Franc Reserve 2019 ($50). This wine benefits from being decanted. It begins with aromas of blackberry, dark cherry and spice. Rich and concentrated on the palate, it delivers flavours of black currant and black cherry mingled with vanilla and a hint of pepper. 93.