Rust Winery makes its mark with Syrah

Photo: Rust Winery takes its name from its steel siding

Syrah fans will have noticed that Rust Wine Co., south of Oliver, is establishing itself as a leading producer of this varietal.

Over the years, Syrah has become my favorite red varietal. I especially like those from the South Okanagan and the Similkameen. They are often full-bodied and peppery and just plain satisfying to drink. Of course, I like almost all other varietals as well. I would not be reviewing wines if I did not. But I have a soft spot for Syrah. Rust is doing a great job with the varietal. Ryan de Witte, the winemaker, gets Syrah from four different terroirs – three in the Okanagan Valley and one in the Similkameen Valley. He expresses the characteristics of those terroirs with great skill. The soil types are sufficiently different to produce subtle but important differences among the wines. The Lazy River Vineyard in the Similkameen has sandy clay loam with limestone and granitic rock. Just 10 km north of the U.S. border, it is a vineyard with, as Ryan’s notes say, “desert heat, prevailing wind and stony slopes. The South Rock Vineyard, which is next to the winery on the Golden Mile, is on a fluvial fan of gravelly clay and eroded mountain rock. The Ferreira Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench is volcanic ash mixed with fine granitic sand. The Lost Horn Vineyard in Okanagan Falls is clay loam with layers of gravel and small boulders.

Ryan had spent four vintages at Leaning Post Winery, a premium winery at Stoney Creek, ON, before joining Rust in 2019. On its website, Rust says that Ryan has a passion for single vineyard wines. He has been given plenty of opportunity for that at Rust, a small winery owned by the proprietor of the large Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery in West Kelowna.

Wine was not Ryan’s first career choice. He got a political science degree in 2006 from Wilfred Laurier University in Waterloo, ON, and then spent several years in Edmonton, working for Alberta Health Services. But in 2012, he enrolled in the Niagara College wine program and was on the president’s honour roll when he graduated in 2014. He began accumulating winery experiences in Ontario as a practicum student at Featherstone Estate Winery in 2013 and Henry of Pelham in 2014. He spent three months in early 2015 as a cellar hand at Amisfield Wine Co. in New Zealand before returning to Ontario as assistant winemaker at Leaning Post.

Here are notes on the wines.

Rust Syrah 2019 South Rock Vineyard ($44). This is a vineyard, planted in 2002, on the Golden Mile Bench. The wine was aged 10 months in French oak (20% new). The wine has aromas and flavours of pepper and dark fruit. It benefits from decanting. The wine developed lovely aromas in the glass. Ryan says this wine has “the stuff to age” for the next decade. 92.

Rust Syrah 2019 Ferreira Vineyard ($44). The Ferreira Vineyard, also planted in 2002, is on the Black Sage Bench. The wine was aged 10 months in French oak (20% new). This wine has aromas and flavours of black cherry, plum and spice with a full-bodied texture. 92.

Rust Syrah 2019 Lazy River Vineyard ($44). This vineyard is near Cawston on the Similkameen Valley. The wine was aged 10 months in French oak (20% new). The wine begins with aromas of pepper, spice and plum. The palate is rich, with flavours of deli meats, black olives and figs, finishing with more pepper. 93.

Rust Syrah 2019 Lost Horn Vineyard ($44). This vineyard, planted in 2016, is near Okanagan Falls. The wine was aged 10 months in French oak (20% new). Aromas of sage and mint lead to flavours of black cherry and dark fruit. 91.