Church & State's terroir-driven wines

Photo: Church & State winemaker Arnaud Thierry

There is a house style to the red wines from Church & State expressing the terroir of the winery’s vineyards, most of which are clustered on the Black Sage Bench between Osoyoos and Oliver. “Well, I am a French winemaker, so I try to express the terroir,” explains Arnaud Thierry, the winemaker. “And I think that is what is special for us. Nobody can copy the terroir.”

Church & State has 85 acres of vineyard in the south Okanagan and 10 acres at Brentwood Bay on Vancouver Island, where the winery originated in 2002 as Victoria Estate Winery. It was acquired two years later by lawyer Kim Pullen. At the recommendation of his consulting winemaker at the time, Californian Bill Dyer, he moved production to the south Okanagan a few years later rather than transporting those grapes to Vancouver Island. The Brentwood Bay vineyard now produces grapes just for sparkling wines. Pullen sold the winery in 2017 to Sunocean Wineries and Estate, a Vancouver company owned by a low-profile Chinese businessman.

Arnaud Thierry joined Church & State early in 2018. Born in Normandy and trained in Champagne, he had extensive experience in France before coming to the Okanagan with his wife, Caroline Schaller, the winemaker and general manager at Osoyoos Larose. “When we arrived, I was expecting more to find more northern varietals, like Pinot Noir, Gamay and Cabernet Franc,” he says. Instead, he found that the vineyards were growing primarily Rhône and Bordeaux varietals. “I am quite impressed with the quality of the reds we have here. We have a good terroir – dry and sunny. The reds keep the balance of the fruit and the freshness and the acidity. The reds are not too jammy. I like the ripeness in the reds.”

There are no winemaking tricks in the cellar. “The winemaking is quite simple and traditional,” Arnaud says. “I am very attracted by tradition, and the respect of the fruit. Winemaking is very classic: a good expression of the fruit and freshness in the whites; and volume, fruit and spice in the reds. I want to have the varietal specificity of the grapes each time.” The wines reviewed here represent Arnaud’s first Okanagan vintages, with the exception of a few wines from earlier vintages that he finished. Here are notes.

Church & State Estate Pinot Gris 2018 ($21.84 for 2,095 cases). This wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged six months in tank (10% was in French oak). The wine has aromas and flavours of pear, melon and apple. 88.

Church & State Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($22.99 for 2,081 cases). This was fermented in stainless steel and aged six months in tank (10% in French oak). It begins with expressive aromas of citrus mingled with herbs. On the palate, there are flavours of citrus, quince and green apple. 90.

Church & State Vineyard Collection (Coyote Bowl) Chardonnay 2018 ($31.04 for 1,342 cases). This wine was fermented in barrel and aged eight months in French oak. It is a complex wine, with subtle oak supporting aromas of butter, orange and apple. 91.

Church & State Estate Viognier 2018 ($25.29 for 1,558 cases). This wine was fermented in barrel and aged eight months in French oak. The aromatics of Viognier are on display, with aromas of quince, pineapple, pear an apricot. These are echoed on the palate, along with a touch of citrus. 91.

Church & State Marsanne 2018 Vineyard Collection ($29.89 for 664 cases). This wine was fermented and aged eight months in French oak barrels. Rich in texture, it delivers aromas and flavours of tropical fruits – mango, papaya, orange. The finish is long. 91.

Church & State Roussanne 2018 Vineyard Collection ($29.89 for 549 cases). Whole bunches of handpicked fruit were fermented and aged eight months in French oak barrels. This is also a wine with tropical aromas and flavours of citrus and mango. There is a perception of oiliness from the rich texture but there is good acidity to keep the fruit bright on the palate. 92.

Church & State Estate Trebella 2019 ($25.29 for 200 cases). This is a blend of 40% each Roussanne and Marsanne and 20% Viognier. Those grapes are very harmonious partners. The wine begins with aromas of citrus and spice. On the palate, there are flavours of stone fruit, citrus and spice. 93.

Church & State Estate Muscat Frizzante 2018 ($20.34 for 783 cases). This wine was fermented and aged six months in stainless steel and then pressurized to produce the bubbles. The Muscat varietal is expressed well with aromas of spice and fruit. The wine is juicy on the palate with a hint of sweetness on the finish. 90.

<b>Church & State Sparkling Pinot Gris 2018 Vineyard Collection ($25.75 for 1,400 cases). This is a traditional method sparkling wine which was aged in bottle a minimum of 12 months. It is a delicious wine, fresh and fruity with bright acidity balance the residual sweetness. It has flavours of peach and citrus, with a creamy texture. 91.

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