Covert Farms: Is the quality in the farming?

Photo: Farmer and winegrower Gene Covert

The hallmark of these wines is the freshness and intensity of the fruit flavours. Perhaps it reflects the winemaking. No doubt, it also reflects the way in which the property is farmed. In 2019, owner Gene and Shelly Covert took what they called “a deep dive into the world of regenerative farming” at family-owned Covert Farms, north of Oliver. This farm, established in 1959 by Gene’s grandfather, is the base of Covert Farms Estate Winery, which opened in 2006. The quality of the current releases wines shows that the Coverts are good farmers. Their commitment to regenerative farming implies that they think there is more upside with even better farming practices.

In a newsletter a few years ago, they explained regenerative farming. It “focuses on five key principles we apply to our 100 acres of vineyards and crop fields. These include minimal or no-tillage of the soil; preservation of the amour (plant residue) left on the soil surface; living plant root at all times possible; diverse crop rotation; and livestock integration.” The Coverts have grown a lentil cover crop under the vines for many years. Several years ago,, they switched to a robust cocktail of 13 different plants. “Research indicates that multi-species plantings create synergies that that improve drought resistance versus single species plantings,” the newsletter says. This “seems to bear some truth as these have been our most successful dry farmed plantings to date.” Cows graze the cover crops in winter and the crop fields in summer. “A cow’s micro-biome is closely associated with healthy soil function.” The newsletter continues: “We are seeing the benefits of this approach. By growing the plants we want in the vineyard, we have reduced our weeding expense by 70%, as well as our need for off-site compost by 50%. The expanded biodiversity seems to be paying dividends in reduced pest and disease pressure.”

Here are notes on five current releases.

Covert Farms Chardonnay 2020 ($24.17). Fifteen percent of this wine was fermented in new French oak and aged on the less. The remainder was fermented in stainless steel. Lightly gold in colour, the wine begins with aromas of orange and apple mingled with vanilla and savoury herbs. Rich in texture, the wine delivers flavours of peach and apricot with clove. The finish is memorably long. 91.

Covert Farms Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon 2020 ($22.43). The wine begins with herbal aromas mingled with lemon and pineapple. Crisp on the palate, the wine delivers flavours of lime and herbs. The finish is persistent. 91.

Covert Farms Pinot Blanc 2020 ($20.70). The wine was fermented 90% in stainless steel, 10% in neutral oak (to add texture). A classic example of the varietal, the wine has aromas and flavours of apple and nectarine. The dry finish is ripe and savoury. 91.

Covert Farms Rosé 2020 ($22.49). This is 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Syrah. The grapes were allowed 12 hours of skin contact and the juice was then co-fermented in stainless steel. The wine begins with aromas of strawberry jam with a hint of cherry. On the palate, there are flavours of strawberry and cherry, with a persistent, dry finish. 90.

Covert Farms Sparkling Zinfandel 2020 ($28.59). Fermentation of this wine started in a stainless steel tank and finished in the bottles. The wine has a delicate hue and just 8.9% alcohol. It is quite fruity on the nose. On the palate, there are flavours of fresh crabapples. Bright acidity gives the wine a tangy lift on the finish. 90.