Laughing Stock has not missed a step

Photo: Winemaker Dave Carson

Laughing Stock Vineyards legendary Bordeaux blend, Portfolio, was one of the wines that inspired me to write by 2017 book, Icon: Flagship Wines from British Columbia’s Best Wineries. This Naramata Bench winery made the first Portfolio in the 2003 vintage. A few vintages later, I began cellaring four to six bottles of each vintage when the wine was released. In my view, it was a wine that matured with the classic elegance of a pedigreed Bordeaux red. Best of all, it was reasonably priced. Over the years, David and Cynthia Enns, the founders and now former owners of the winery, hosted vertical tastings of Portfolio that confirmed the collectability of Portfolio.

In 2017 David and Cynthia sold Laughing Stock to Arterra Wines Canada. David, who had made all the vintages of Portfolio through 2017, was easing himself out of the cellar by the 2018 vintage, when the wines reviewed here were made. The lead winemaker in 2018 was Nikki Callaway, who had been poached away from Quails’ Gate Estate Winery. The assistant winemaker was Stefanie Dylla, a Brock University honours graduate in viticulture and enology, who had joined Laughing Stock in 2016. Nikki has since moved on to make the wines at O’Rourke Peak Cellars in Lake Country. Her role as senior winemaker was taken over in 2019 by Dave Carson, the veteran winemaker in the Arterra group. Stefanie remains as assistant winemaker.

Given the turnover at Laughing Stock at the time, it is a bit hard to assign the winemaking credit for these two wines. Suffice it to say that the Syrah is sensational and the Portfolio is a worthy successor to a long series of collectible wines.

Here are notes on the wines.

Laughing Stock Syrah 2018 ($36.99 for 900 cases). This wine was aged 20 months in French oak (28% new). It is a big, bold red. The aromas of black cherry, plum, fig and black pepper are repeated on the generous palate. There is a hint of vanilla and blackberry on the finish. It is a remarkable wine. 93.

Laughing Stock Portfolio 2018 ($49.99 for 2,400 cases). The blend is 45% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot. The wine has been aged 21 months in French oak (42% new, 58% second fill). This is a tightly structured wine, built to age. It is spicy on the nose with aromas of black currant and black cherry. Layers of fruit reveal themselves as the wine breathes. It should be decanted for early consumption. 93.