Dirty Laundry's Hush power

Photo: Winemaker Mason Spink (photo by Luke Whittall)

Since Mason Spink took over as winemaker in 2013, Summerland’s Dirty Laundry Vineyard has doubled production to about 38,000 cases. The winery, which now farms 80 acres of vineyard in the Summerland area and also has contract growers in the south Okanagan and the Similkameen, is not capping its growth yet. Important additions to the portfolio are coming as the vines mature at its newest vineyard, a 14-acre parcel on Prairie Valley Road called Moonless Creek which is planted largely to Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir and Grüner Veltliner. “I am really excited to see how our Gamay will produce here in Summerland,” he says. “We made a small lot in 2020 that we hope to bottle this summer, and then release it. If it shows well, we have the potential to expand that to 500 cases or so. I am loving Gamay lately. I think the variety is quite well suited for Summerland’s conditions.”

Mason, a Brock University-trained winemaker, also made a small volume of Grüner Veltliner, a first for Dirty Laundry. It will likely be released later this year in Dirty Laundry’s tasting room and to its wine club. As well, a new cellar series of small lot wines (100 to 250 cases each) will be released in June. These include Dirty Laundry’s first orange wine, made with Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. “I have found many natural/orange wines that are too over the top,” Mason observes. “People are doing huge skin macerations for extended periods. We are making it to be approachable. I still want that ‘orange’ character but I don’t want it to just be a wine nerd’s wine.”

The largest volume wine in the Dirty Laundry portfolio, at 13,500 cases, is the Hush Rosé. The success of that wine reflects the gradual changes in the wine since Mason took over the cellar. “When I came to Dirty Laundry in 2013, Hush was quite dark and overly sweet,” he says. “We have been slowly changing that style. Our loyal drinkers here in B.C. have gravitated towards it and pushed it to those volumes.” “It has been one of our flagships,” Mason adds. “It is somewhat its own brand now. Everyone is familiar with that label and that name.” For that reason, the portfolio has been extended now to include both a Hush White (a blend of Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris) and a Hush Red (a blend of Malbec and Merlot).

Here are notes on some of the winery’s current releases.

Dirty Laundry Pinot Gris 2019 ($19.99 for 3,000 cases). The wine has honeyed aromas of quince and pear. There is generous fruit on the palate – pear, melon, apple and tangerine with spice on the finish. 90.

Dirty Laundry Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($19.99 for 500 cases). The wine begins with tropical aromas of mango and papaya with a note of spice recalling black licorice – unusual for this varietal but quite interesting. The fruit flavours are rich and satisfying – grapefruit and grapefruit rind. The finish is crisp and dry. 90.

Dirty Laundry Reserve Chardonnay 2019 ($21.49 for 300 cases). This wine had partial malolactic fermentation; and 60% was aged in French oak for eight months while the rest was aged in stainless steel. The aromas are appealing, with buttery notes mingled with ripe pineapple that are echoed on the palate. 90.

Dirty Laundry Hush Rosé 2020 ($19.99 for 13,500 cases). The blend is primarily Pinot Gris and Cabernet Sauvignon. The delicate rose petal hue comes from overnight skin contact with the Pinot Gris; the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are pressed immediately after being destemmed. The wine begins with aromas of strawberry jam mingled with cherry and spice. That carries through to juicy flavours of red apple and ripe strawberry with spicy fruit on the lingering finish. 90.

Dirty Laundry Pinot Noir 2019 ($28.99 for 450 cases). This was aged 13 months in barrel (80% French, 30% new). The aromas of cherry, vanilla and mocha carry through to the silken palate, mingled with pomegranate. There is an earthy note on the finish. 90.

Dirty Laundry Kay’s Syrah 2018 ($29.99 for 1,400 cases). This is a big wine aged at least 18 months in barrel. It begins with aromas of pepper, plum and fig. On the palate, there are rich flavours of fig, plum, leather. Long ripe tannins give the wine a long, fleshy finish. 91.

Dirty Laundry Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($27.99 for 1,200 cases). This is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon (with fruit from the Similkameen and Okanagan Valleys) and 10% Okanagan Merlot. The wine was aged 12 months in neutral oak (75% French, 15% American). It begins with aromas of black cherry, cedar and spice. There is a big dollop of sweet fruit (cherry, black currant, plum) with mocha on the finish. 91.