Culmina releases a strong portfolio

 

 

Photo: Culmina's winery

Culmina Family Estate Winery was so named because it is the culmination of a career in wine for Donald and Elaine Triggs. They founded Culmina in 2007 and sold it in 2019 to Arterra Wines Canada.

 

Arguably, it is the finest winery in Arterra’s portfolio.

 

Arterra is the successor to Vincor International Ltd., which Donald Triggs had developed into a major international wine company before Vincor was taken over in 2006 by Constellation Brands. The latter subsequently spun off the Canadian wine assets to Arterra, which is controlled by the Ontario Teachers Pension Fund. Jay Wright, Arterra’s chief executive, formerly was the right-hand man to Donald Triggs.

 

 

The year after the Vincor takeover, Donald and Elaine began developing 56 acres of densely planted vines on three mountainside benches on the Golden Mile as the site of Culmina.

 

The three vineyard benches, each with differing soils and elevations, provide winemaking options. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon make up the largest blocks, followed by Chardonnay, Riesling, Syrah, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. There is also 2½ acres of Grüner Veltliner, the Austrian white.

 

The well-equipped winery is perched on the mountainside, allowing the winemakers to move wine gently with gravity. The design also affords superb views over the valley from the wine shop.

 

Culmina has been deeply influenced by the same French winemaking expertise that Donald had employed in the development of Osoyoos Larose Winery. Culmina tapped the expertise of Alain Sutre, the same Bordeaux consultant who helped get Osoyoos Larose launched, as well as Pascal Madevon, the initial winemaker at Osoyoos Larose.

 

In 2015, when Pascal opened his own consultancy, he was succeeded by another French-trained winemaker, Jean-Marc Enixon. He is making outstanding wines, as the current releases reveal.

 

Here are notes on the wines.

 

Culmina Stan’s Bench Chardonnay No. 011 2018 ($38 for 50 cases). This elegant Chardonnay will be released later this year or early next year. Even then, it merits further cellaring to fully express itself. There are aromas and flavours of citrus fruits, orange peel and butter. 90-92.

 

Culmina Margaret’s Bench Chardonnay No. 010 2018 ($38 for 50 cases).
This attractive wine is slightly more forward than the Stan’s Bench Chardonnay. Rich in texture, it begins with aromas of and citrus that lead to intense flavours of
pear, ripe apple, citrus, butter and vanilla. Neither of these Chardonnays went through malolactic fermentation, accounting for the fact both are fruit forward. 92.

 

Culmina Malbec 2016 ($39). This wine begins with the classic spicy perfume of this variety. There are layers of fruit on the palate, including cherry, plum and mulberry, mingled with mocha. Long, ripe tannins give the wine a polished texture. 93.

 

Culmina Merlot 2016 ($35). What is there not to love about Merlot from the Golden Mile? This luscious wine begins with aromas of cassis and black cherry. The richly textured palate delivers a medley of dark fruits, including plum and cherry mingled with vanilla and chocolate. 93.

 

Culmina Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($39). This wine has aromas of black cherry, cassis and vanilla. These lead to flavours of black currants, black cherry, vanilla and spice. Decanting is suggested to let the wine express itself. 92.

 

Culmina Cabernet Franc 2016 ($38). This wine begins with aromas of blackberry, black cherry and spice. The wine is full on the palate with flavours of black cherry and blackberry mingling with tobacco and chocolate. 92.