50th Parallel takes on Champagne

 Photo: Winemaker Matthew Fortuna

The cool climate vineyard at 50^th Parallel Estate Winery, was planted a decade ago with Champagne and Pinot Noir in mind, among other wines.

This summer’s releases from winemaker Matthew Fortuna includes an elegant sparkling wine that put me in mind of Champagne. It looks and tastes like Champagne and it is priced like a Champagne.

I have no problem with that. For some time, I have thought that the producers of British Columbia’s premium sparkling wines were leaving money on the table. Lucky consumers that we are!

For some background on 50^th Parallel, here is an except from the recent edition of Okanagan Wine Tour Guide.

The 50th Parallel winery, near Carr’s Landing north of Lake Country, is farther north than the actual 50th parallel. Operating a winery beyond the 50th is considered risky anywhere in the world since the accepted latitude range for wine production is between 30 and 50 degrees north or south. Founding owners Sheri-Lee Turner and Curtis Krouzel have accepted that risk, which is moderated by the sun-bathed southern exposure of the vineyard and the moderating lake influence.

The bright wine shop is surrounded by glass on three sides, which frames the surrounding vineyards, hillsides, and Okanagan Lake “What we wanted to give people was the experience of not only the wine,” explains Sheri-Lee, “we wanted to give people the experience of the Okanagan.” Curtis picks up on that point. “Anywhere you look, you’re surrounded by the wine and you’re surrounded by this amazing place that creates the wine.”

The winery began humbly in a Quonset hut. The timbers from that were used for an elegantly curved tasting bar in an expanded wine shop. The grand winery was built subsequently and was joined in 2018 by the Block One restaurant. The architecture accentuates the the winery’s branding: the whole building is filled with parallel lines in the form of windows, columns, and steel beams. The culinary masterpieces in the restaurants are made using local ingredients, some grown by on the property by the chef.

Curtis and Sheri-Lee respect the property’s history. An earlier vineyard produced grapes for the Jordan & Ste-Michelle Winery (originally Growers Wines) in Victoria until the pullout program in 1988 when the unwanted vines were ripped out. The land remained unused for nearly 20 years until Curtis and Sheri-Lee purchased it in 2008. They have planted a 27-hectare (67-acre) vineyard of precisely oriented rows on a long southward-facing slope. The journey is still in progress. Curtis says, “The vision that Sheri-Lee and I have had for the last 19 years - that’s coming to fruition.”

Here are notes on current releases.

50^th Parallel Gewürztraminer 2019 ($20.50). The wine begins with aromas of spice and lychee. On the palate, there is an initial hit of herbal flavours and licorice that moves on to orange and orange zest. The finish is crisp and dry. This is one of the Okanagan’s most interesting Gewürztraminers. 92.

50^th Parallel Pinot Gris 2019 ($22.50).  The wine begins with aromas of peach and pear mingled with delicate spice. This is echoed on the palate, along with a hint of wildflower honey. The finish, however, is crisp and dry. 91.

50^th Parallel Chardonnay 2018 ($39.00). The subtle use of oak leads to inviting hints of buttery oak on the nose. On the palate, the flavours of tropical fruit stand out, along with creamy flavours of vanilla and nutmeg. The finish is persistent. 92.

50^th Parallel Pinot Noir Rosé 2019 ($23.50). The wine presents with a delicate rose petal hue, leading to aromas and flavours of strawberry and watermelon. The wine is juicy on the palate and refreshing on the finish. 90.

50^th Parallel Estate Pinot Noir 2017 ($34.00). Aromas of cherry mingle with herbal notes. On the palate, there is a delicious impact of cherry and dark berries with a note of mocha and spice on the finish. The texture is silky. 92.

50^th Parallel Blanc de Noir Sparkling Wine 2017 ($85.00). Made in the traditional method, this wine presents in the glass with a delicate pink/bronze hue and an active mousse. It has aromas of pink grapefruit with a hint of brioche. The palate echoes the pink grapefruit and brioche flavours, with a crisp finish. 93.