Fitzpatrick overcomes natural disasters

 Photo: Gordon Fitzpatrick

Gordon Fitzpatrick, president of Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards, include an apt anecdote with his covering letter introducing the current releases.

“There is a famous wine quote attributed to the Rothschilds that goes something like this - ‘the wine business is not so tough, it is just the first three generations that was difficult’,” Gordon wrote.

Referring to Senator Ross Fitzpatrick, he continued: “Dad and I were reminiscing the other day about our Grand Opening in June 2017 at Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards. We noted that our first year of operating was impacted by the floods, followed by the Mount Eneas wildfire [which almost jumped the highway beside the vineyard], and now the COVID-19 crisis.”

Gordon added: “Despite all these challenges, we keep making good wine. And the best thing about our business is whether we’re celebrating being recognized as the best small winery in B.C. or coping with natural disasters or a pandemic, we thoroughly enjoy the fruits of our labour at the end of the day.”

The current releases are first rate. Here are notes on the wines.

Fitzpatrick The Lookout Riesling 2019 ($18.50 for 620 cases). This low alcohol wine (11%) resulted from picking the fruit early and, after a cool four-month fermentation, stopping ferment when 18 grams of residual sugar remains. It is nicely balanced with bright acidity. The wine has aromas and flavours of lemon, apple and peach. The wine manages to be juicy on the palate and refreshingly crisp on the finish. 90.

Fitzpatrick The Unwinder Ehrenfelser 2019 ($19.50 for 573 cases). Herbal notes mingle with tropical fruit in the aroma. On the palate, which is surprisingly fleshy, there are flavours of peach, pear and guava. The dry finish is remarkable for its length. The purity of the fruit reflects that the wine was fermented entirely in stainless steel.  91.

Fitzpatrick The Big Leap Chardonnay 2018 ($24.90 for 150 cases). The fruit was fermented in neutral French oak barrels and aged 10 months in oak (only 14% was new). No malolactic fermentation was allowed. Clearly, the objective was to make a fruit-forward Chardonnay, using the wood just to add a note of complexity. There is the faintest hint of oak on the nose, along with aromas of apple and stone fruits. The fruit is bright and appealing, with flavours of apple and pear and hint of vanilla. 91.

Fitzpatrick Sudden Inversion Meritage 2017 ($28.50 for 587 cases). This is 60% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit is from the Maverick vineyards south of Oliver. The wine was aged 14 months in French oak (10% new). Dark in colour, the wine begins with quite dramatic aromas of cassis, black cherry and blackberry. On the palate, the texture is voluptuous, supporting flavours of a medley spice and dark berries. 91.

Fitzpatrick Fitz Reserve Sparkling Rosé 2016 ($42.50 for 175 six-bottle cases). This is 100% Pinot Noir and was aged at least 36 months on lees in bottle. Lightly pink in hue, the wine has aromas of wild strawberry and watermelon. The active mousse supports a creamy palate with flavours of strawberry and apple. Bracing acidity gives the wine a crisp, dry finish. 90.

Fitzpatrick Fitz Brut 2016 ($32.99 for 3,390 six-bottle cases).  The blend is 66% Chardonnay, 26% Pinot Noir, 6% Pinot Blanc and 2% Pinot Meunier. The wine was aged a minimum of 24 months on lees in the bottle. This an elegant and delicious sparkling with aromas of citrus and apple that are echoed on the palate, along with appealing brioche flavours. The active mousse gives the wine a creamy texture. 93.