Bordertown embraces Cabernet Franc

Photo: Bordertown's Mohan Gill

The fourth most widely grown red wine grape in the Okanagan is Cabernet Franc.

In the 2019 vintage, it accounted for just under 12% of total red grape production. Cabernet Franc was marginally behind Cabernet Sauvignon. The most widely grown red, of course, is Merlot at 37% of the production in 2019, followed by Pinot Noir, at 17%.

The acreage of Cabernet Franc likely is limited because many winemakers thought of it as a blending grape, rather than a varietal to be rolled out on its own. Tinhorn Creek was an early champion of Cabernet Franc as a varietal. Mission Hill, on the other hand, did not release a Cabernet Franc on its own until three years ago. John Simes, the former winemaker, kept the grape for his excellent blends.

Judging from the large volume of Cabernet Franc made by Bordertown Vineyards in 2018, the variety has picked up a new champion in this Osoyoos winery operated by Mohan Gill.

Jancis Robinson, in her authoritative Grape Vines, describes Cabernet Franc as the “fragrant, well-structured parent of Cabernet Sauvignon”.

“Canada’s relatively short growing season means that Cabernet Franc can be ripened more easily that Cabernet Sauvignon in some areas,” she writes.

That was the reason that Tinhorn Creek in 1994 planted Cabernet Franc and Merlot but not Cabernet Sauvignon when initially planting its Diamondback Vineyard on Black Sage Road. Cabernet Sauvignon ripens about a week later than Cabernet Franc. Tinhorn creek has planted the varietal since because the growing seasons have become warmer.

There is no doubt that Cabernet Franc is well-suited for the South Okanagan. In addition to Bordertown, the Gill families at Gold Hill have elevated the place of Cabernet Franc in their portfolio.

The grape produces lively, full-flavoured red wines that are often described as “brambly” because of the exuberant red berry aromas and flavours. Bordertown’s 2018 is an excellent example.   

Here are notes on that wine and other new releases from Bordertown.

Bordertown Gewürztraminer 2019 ($20 for 100 cases). The wine begins with aromas of spices and herbs which carry through to the flavours. The dry finish sets the wine up to be enjoyed with food. 90.

Bordertown Viognier 2019 ($22 for 135 cases). The wine begins with aromas and flavours of pear, pineapple and apricot. The moderate alcohol (12.1%) and good acidity make this a refreshing wine with a dry finish. 90.

Bordertown Cabernet Franc Rosé 2019 ($23 for 675 cases). Fashionably pale, the wine begins with aromas of wild strawberries. It delivers juicy flavours of strawberry and watermelon, with a lingering dry finish. 91.

Bordertown Merlot 2017 ($25 for 865 cases). The wine begins with aromas of dark fruits mingled with vanilla. On the palate, there are flavours of black cherry, blackberry and even raspberry. The long ripe tannins flesh out the texture of this medium-bodied wine. The finish is persistent. 91.

Bordertown Cabernet Franc 2018 ($23 for 4,200 cases). This wine begins with classic brambly aromas mingled with cassis and spice. On the palate, there are flavours of dark fruits (black cherry, fig) along with notes of tobacco and dark chocolate. The tannins are ripe but the firm texture marks this as a wine for decanting now or for aging five to seven years. 93.