Hester Creek's The Judge and friends

Photo: U.S. Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg

This summer’s releases from Hester Creek Estate Winery included The Judge, the winery’s flagship red – and one of the best wines from the Okanagan vintage after vintage.

The dependability of The Judge brought to mind U.S. Supreme Court Judge Ruth Bader Ginsburg, the dependable guardian of liberal values on that court since she was appointed in 1983 by Bill Clinton.

She is now 87, with so many difficult health issues that her survival until Joe Biden becomes president is in considerable question. Given the chance, Donald Trump will replace her with an ultra-conservative judge before he leaves office next January (I am assuming that will happen.)  Since Supreme Court judges are appointed for life (or until they retire), the ideologic balance of the court would have a persistent conservative slant.

Even with a Biden as president, a conservative court would enable the American right to continue dismantling socially progressive laws. As a liberal Canadian, I will raise a glass of Hester Creek’s The Judge and hope for Justice Ginsburg’s survival.

The judge inspiring the name of Hester Creek’s wine was Judge John C. Haynes, who is buried in the Osoyoos Cemetery. His eldest daughter was Hester and there is a creek flowing by the winery called Hester Creek.

(That may be a bit of a stretch on my part, as a spokesperson of the winery reminds me.  “As you note in your book Icon, the Judge wine came about from our former winemaker Rob Summer's determination to make an iconic estate blend and to make a wine that in his "judgement" uses the best barrels from the various lots in our cellar.” )

J.C. Haynes was born in Ireland in 1831 and emigrated to Victoria in 1858. He used his connections with the inspector of police to get an appointment to the B.C. Police. Within three years, he was the head Customs Collector for the Okanagan and Similkameen. He settled in Osoyoos where a Customs Port had been established.

Haynes and a partner acquired 22,000 acres, establishing a major ranching operation. The biography of Haynes on the Osoyoos Museum site suggests the budding ranchers bought livestock from the drovers passing through the valley.

Haynes came by his judge’s title through his numerous appointments as a justice of the peace and a district court judge in the B.C. interior.

He did not have Justice Ginsburg’s longevity genes because he fell ill and died in 1888, age 57, at Princeton as he was returning from a trip to Victoria.

Here are notes the recent Hester Creek wines that generated this diversion into history and politics. Prices are before tax.

Hester Creek Character White 2019 ($15.99.) This is a blend of 53% Pinot Gris and 47% Gewürztraminer.  This is a quaffable white that is crisp and refreshing. It has aromas and flavours of citrus, pear and melon. 89.

Hester Creek Terra Unica Sémillon 2019 ($19.99 for 180 cases). This wine is limited to members of the winery’s Bench Club. Crisp and lean, with a mineral spice, this begins with aromas of lemon and honey. On the palate, there are flavours of lemon and lime. Due the wine’s bright acidity, the finish is tangy. 91.

Hester Creek Terra Unica Viognier 2019 ($19.99 for 200 cases). Also restricted to the Bench Club, this is an exceptional Viognier: rich, with focussed aromas and pure flavours. It begins with aromas of stone fruit and pear, leading to generous flavours of apricot, peach and apple. The finish is quite persistent. 92.

Hester Creek The Judge 2017 ($43.99). This is 36% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Merlot. The wine was aged 24 months in oak (75% French, 25% American). The wine begins with a powerful aroma of cassis, black cherry and vanilla. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied with flavours of dark cherry, fig, plum, chocolate and dark licorice. 94.