Winemaker's Cut: wines packed with flavour

Photo: Winemaker Michal Mosny

Michal Mosny, the co-owner and winemaker Winemaker’s Cut, has created a clever web site to introduce his wines.

For each wine, he has recorded a 90-second video in which he speaks about where the grapes come from and how he made the wine, followed by a brief comment on the appearance, aroma and flavour.

For most consumers, it is a sufficient introduction to his interesting wines. The production volumes are sufficient that online buyers or visitors to the tasting room south of Oliver should be able to find the wines.

For more background, here is an excerpt from the new Okanagan Wine Tour Guide. The book was published at the end of April and is available in book stores at $25 a copy. Except for the pandemic restrictions, I would have been in the Okanagan this spring to sign books.

Classical music in winery is the signature of a Michal Mosny winery. “In all the wineries I have ever worked in, there is classical music in the vineyards and classical music in the cellars,” he said as speakers were being installed here in 2019. “That’s a must.” In Slovakia, where he was born in 1982, he and Martina, his wife, had a small winery (about 500 cases a year) near the village where Beethoven is said to have written “Für Elise.”

Michal and Martina immigrated in 2011, frustrated with the obstacles to assembling vineyards in Slovakia and also wanting to travel. Martina chanced to see a television documentary about Nk’Mip Cellars. That led to them to the Okanagan, where Michal set up a vineyard-management company. He spent five years as the winemaker and vineyard manager at Lunessence Winery & Vineyard near Summerland while developing Winemaker’s CUT, based on the Deadman Lake Vineyard.

He had met the vineyard’s owner, Colin Stevens, in 2013 while buying grapes for one of Michal’s winery clients. The Stevens family had originally grown tree fruits since the 1920s on this property beside the highway midway between Oliver and Osoyoos. About 3.2 hectares (8 acres) of vines—Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Franc—were planted between 2000 and 2005. The Stevens family had considered developing a winery but never did.

Michal discovered that the vineyard, rich in organic matter and minerals, produced wines of exceptional flavour. With the 2015 vintage, he began making wines for his Winemaker’s CUT label. He leased the vineyard and, after leaving Lunessence in 2019, turned a small fruit-packing house into a winery. “I am a proud garagiste winery,” Michal said after making 800 cases in 2018 and doubling production the next year.

While he purchases some grapes, the vineyard is being expanded modestly with varieties such as Grüner Veltliner and Welschriesling that Michal knows from Slovakia. “I have never worked with Grüner Veltliner in the vineyard,” Michal says. “I am looking forward to that. I just love those Grüner flavours that give me goosebumps because they remind me of my home country.”

Here are notes on the current releases.

Winemaker’s Cut Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($26 for 800 cases). The wine begins with aromas of lime. On the palate, it is crisp and zesty with lime, lemon and herbal flavours. 90.

Winemaker’s Cut Muscat Canelli 2019 ($24 for 250 cases). Lightly effervescent, the wine begins with lovely spice, orange and rose petal aromas typical of the variety. On the palate, the wine is intensely fruity, but has a crisp and dry finish. 92

Winemaker’s Cut Grüner Veltliner 2019 ($26 for 300 cases). The winemaker has an affinity for this varietal, having made it in his native Slovakia. The wine begins with generous aromas of peach, honey and almonds. Those are echoed on the fleshy palate. On the finish, there is the hint of white pepper that is typical of the variety. 92.

Winemaker’s Cut Rosé 2019 ($26 for 700 cases). This is 90% Cabernet Franc, 10% Syrah, fermented and matured in stainless steel. The colour is fashionable light because the grapes were crushed but not given any skin contact. The aroma is delicate, with a hint of watermelon and grapefruit which is echoed on the palate. The texture is juicy and the finish is slightly off dry but refreshing. 90.

Winemaker’s Cut Syrah 2018 ($34 for 600 cases). This wine begins with aromas of dark fruit and black pepper. On the palate, there are flavours of plum and prune mingled with pepper. The wine is delicious, with long ripe tannins. 91.

Winemaker’s Cut Bohemian Cuvée Rouge 2018 ($36 for 200 cases). This is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 10% Syrah. It begins with aromas of cherry along with a hint of pepper. It is fleshy on the palate with layers of dark fruit and a persistent finish. 91.

Winemaker’s Cut Boho Beat 2019 ($22 for 1,500 cases). This is an unoaked blend of Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Riesling and Kerner, fermented with both wild and organic yeasts.  The wine begins with aromas of spice and stone fruit. The palate is luscious with flavours of peach, pear and melon. The wine is refreshing. 90.

Winemaker’s Cut Boho Zen 2019 ($26 for 700 cases). This is a blend of Syrah and Merlot, fermented with natural yeast. The wine is intensely fruit, with aromas and flavours of cherry and blackberry. This is for natural wine fans. 88.