Covert Farms embraces regenerative farming

Photo: Gene Covert

In 2019, Gene and Shelly Covert took what they called “a deep dive into the world of regenerative farming” at family-owned Covert Farms, north of Oliver.

This farm, established in 1959 by Gene’s grandfather, is the base of Covert Farms Estate Winery, which opened in 2006. The quality of four currently released wines shows that the Coverts are good farmers. Their commitment to regenerative farming implies that they think there is more upside with even better farming practices.

In a recent newsletter, they explained regenerative farming. It “focuses on five key principles we apply to our 100 acres of vineyards and crop fields. These include minimal or no-tillage of the soil; preservation of the amour (plant residue) left on the soil surface; living plant root at all times possible; diverse crop rotation; and livestock integration.”

The Coverts have grown a lentil cover crop under the vines for many years. Last year, they switched to a robust cocktail of 13 different plants. “Research indicates that multi-species plantings create synergies that that improve drought resistance versus single species plantings,” the newsletter says. This “seems to bear some truth as these have been our most successful dry farmed plantings to date.”

Cows graze the cover crops in winter and the crop fields in summer. “A cow’s micro-biome is closely associated with healthy soil function.”

The newsletter continues: “We are seeing the benefits of this approach. By growing the plants we want in the vineyard, we have reduced our weeding expense by 70%, as well as our need for off-site compost by 50%. The expanded biodiversity seems to be paying dividends in reduced pest and disease pressure.”

The 2019 vintage in the Okanagan was especially difficult. “Mildew and bunch rot challenged many growers in the valley with the wet fall, while due to our use of regenerative practices and proactive management, we were spared any disease issues,” the newsletter continued. “The initial quality assessments of the 2019 fermentations indicates an exceptional vintage with rich flavoured whites and well integrated tannins in the reds.”

In 2020, the Coverts plan on fine-tuning the cocktail of cover crops. They also intend to add Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Syrah to the vineyard. They also plan to offer dry-cured charcuteries from the pasture-raised livestock on the farm. 

Here are notes of four of the current Covert wines.

Covert Farms Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2018 ($23.80 for 156 cases). The blend is 69.5% Sauvignon Blanc and 30.5% Semillon. The wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel. The wine is, predictably, fresh and fruity, with aromas of citrus mingled with herbal notes. On the palate, there are flavours of Asian pear and citrus. 90.

Covert Farms Ancestral Sparkling Zinfandel 2018 ($31.80 for 97 cases). The reference is to the ancestral method of making sparkling wine – letting the wine finish fermenting in the bottle but not disgorging it. This wine has an acceptable haze to its rose-coloured hue. The big surprise was the vigour of the bubble when the bottle was opened. I advise opening this over the sink and pouring the first glass quickly – not that licking the fruity wine from the fingers was so bad. It tastes a bit like raspberry. The finish is dry. 90.

Covert Farms Amicitia 2016 ($29.80 for 950 cases). This is the winery’s flagship red blend. This wine is 37% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 14% Malbec, 9% Petit Verdot and 1% Syrah. It begins with aromas of black cherry, blackberry and chocolate. The palate follows with rich fruit, cherry and nut flavours. The wine was aged 14 months in barrels. 91.

Covert Farms Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Reserve 2016 ($58.90 for 214 cases). This wine was fermented for 27 days in open top fermenters with regular punchdowns by hand. It was then aged in French oak for 18 months. Dark in colour, the wine begins with aromas of black cherry, black currant, vanilla and spice. These are echoed on the palate, along with hints of leather and red licorice. 92.