Bordertown adds value wines to portfolio

Photo: Bordertown's Mohan Gill

Mohan Gill summarizes his biography concisely. Born in India in 1976, he came to the Okanagan in 1993 with his immigrant parents. “I went to Oliver Secondary School,” he recounts. “Then I started working.”

Mohan has never stopped working. He opened Bordertown Winery in 2015 and is now expanding to cider production. Together with a brother, he farms 110 acres of vineyards and orchards, all near Osoyoos. Fourteen grape varietals are grown in these vineyards, supporting Bordertown’s growing wine production.

Mohan dipped his toe into viticulture by planting two acres of grapes in 2005. A quick study, he began increasing his vineyard area in 2007 and was soon selling grapes to both large and small wineries. One of his clients was Mark Simpson, who operates B.C. Wine Studio, a custom crush winery near Okanagan Falls. On Mark’s urging, Mohan opened Bordertown, locating it strategically on the highway just north of Osoyoos. The expansive wine shop signalled Mohan’s ambition that Bordertown become a substantial winery quickly. The winery produced 3,000 cases in 2013, its first vintage. That rose to 13,500 cases in 2017 and Mohan’s goal is to reach 40,000 cases.

Employing consulting winemakers Jason Parkes and, latterly, Daniel Bontorin, Bordertown established its credentials quickly, winning in 2016 a Lieutenant Governor’s Award of Excellence in Wine for debut vintage of its signature red blend, the 2013 Living Desert Red.

The winery’s current releases include a new budget label, Desert Sage. The wines are exceptional value for the price.

Here are notes on the wines.

Bordertown Desert Sage The White 2017 ($12). This white blend is anchored with Gewürztraminer, supported with Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Viognier and Muscat. Predictably, aroma is a basket of fruit. That is echoed on the palate – apple, melon, peach, citrus. The finish is crisp and dry. 90.

Bordertown Desert Sage The Red 2017 ($14). This is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The wine begins with aromas of cassis, blueberry, black cherry and vanilla. Long ripe tannins support flavours of black cherry with hints of tobacco and mocha. 89.

Bordertown Dry Riesling 2018 ($19) The wine begins with aromas of citrus leading to flavours of lemon and lime and an herbal note on the dry finish. Good acidity gives a refreshing zest to the mid-palate. 88.

Bordertown Pinot Gris 2017 ($20) The wine begins with aromas of melon and pear which are echoed on the palate, along with flavours of orange. The mid-palate texture is rich but the wine finishes crisply. 91.

Bordertown Pinot Gris 2018 ($20). The wine begins with aromas of pear, apple and banana. It is rich on the palate with flavours of orange and nectarine. The finish is persistent. 92.

Bordertown Unoaked Chardonnay 2018 ($22). The wine begins with aromas of peach and apricot. On the palate, it is a bowl of fruit – apples, peaches, nectarines – with a long refreshing finish. A textbook example of pure and intense fruit. 92.

Bordertown Grüner Veltliner 2018 ($22) The wine begins with aromas of melon and new mown hay. The palate has good weight and delivers flavours of green melons with a note of herbs on the dry finish. 90.

Bordertown Living Desert White 2017 ($18). This is the winery’s signature white blend: 46% Muscat, 34% Gewürztraminer and 20% Grüner Veltliner. The wine begins with spicy and floral aromas, leading to a medley of refreshing fruit on the palate, including citrus with a hint of ginger. The finish is dry, with a lingering spiciness. 91.

Bordertown Cabernet Franc Rosé 2018 ($23) The wine presents with a delicate rose petal hue. Aromas of rhubarb and strawberry jump from the glass and are echoed on the palate. The wine has a zesty freshness that shout spring is here. 91.

Bordertown Merlot 2016 ($25) This is a big, ripe wine (14.9% alcohol), dark in the glass, with aromas of black currant, black cherry and blueberry. On the palate, the vibrant black fruit flavours explode, delivering black currant and black cherry mingled with tobacco and cedar. There is good concentration here, with a satisfying finish. 91.

Bordertown Cabernet Franc 2017 ($24). Here is a classic brambly expression of a varietal that is a rising star. It begins with aromas blackberry and black cherry. On the palate, there rich flavours of dark fruits mingled with tobacco, chocolate and spicy oak. Full-bodied, the wine has a lingering finish. 92.

Bordertown Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($35). The wine begins with inviting aromas of cassis and black cherry. These are echoed in the lively and appealing flavours of black currant, black cherry, mingled with a note of mint. The tannins are long and polished. 93