Harper's Trail adds bubble to an excellent portfolio

Photo: Vicki and Ed Collett

Harper’s Trail Estate Winery bills itself as “Kamloops’ First Winery”.

On occasion, there has been some contention around that because Doug Wood planted the vineyard for nearby Sagewood Winery in 2005, three years earlier than Harper’s Trail. However, Sagewood opened in 2014, two years later than Harper’s Trail, now a much larger producer.

What makes this vineyard special is same thing that has enabled Lafarge to operate a cement plant nearby since 1970: the underlying limestone in the area, which is quarried for cement but also benefits grape growing. Ed Collett, who owns Harper’s Trail with his wife, Vicki, points to the cliff above the south-sloping vineyards. “That whole side hill is lime rock,” he says.

This property on the north side of the Thompson River is about 16 kilometres (10 miles) east of Kamloops. Formerly, it grew hay and grazed cattle in what is quintessential British Columbia range country. The winery is named for Thaddeus Harper, the 19th-century American-born rancher who once owned the vast 15,569-hectare (38,472-acre) Gang Ranch, one of the first farms to use sturdy gang ploughs. Ed bought his modest slice of ranch country in 2007 after he had conceived the idea of developing a winery. He developed a taste for wine during travels to Chile on business for the mining equipment company he established in 1987.

The desire for a winery emerged during Okanagan wine tours. Ed remembers relaxing at a bed and breakfast overlooking a vineyard and remarking: “I’ve got to get myself one of these.” He began planting vines in 2008. He currently has 10.7 hectares (26.5 acres) of vines and has plans for more in stages as he determines what varieties will succeed. “You have to take baby steps,” Ed notes. “We are further north [than most vineyards] but obviously, it is not a deterrent for us.” The cold winters led to the removal of Merlot while a 2008 planting of Cabernet Franc succeeded so well that more was planted in 2012 and 2018, followed with 2.4 hectares (six acres) of Pinot Noir and Gamay in 2013. Riesling, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay also are succeeding. Bacchus may also be planted. Wind machines combat early autumn frost. Ginseng shade-cloth on the vineyard’s borders breaks the valley’s constant winds. Propane cannons deter the birds.  

The first several vintages, which included three different Rieslings, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, a white blend, a rosé and a Cabernet Franc, were made for Harper’s Trail at Okanagan Crush Pad in Summerland.  A tasting room opened at the vineyard in the summer of 2013. The temporary winemaking facility used for that vintage is being replaced in 2014 by a new winery. There is a picnic patio but plans for a restaurant remain on hold because, in 2019, the Colletts began entertaining purchase offers for their successful winery.

Here are notes on the wines.

Harper’s Trail Field Blend White 2018 ($13.99 for 948 cases). This is a blend of 43.1% Pinot Gris, 29.2% Chardonnay, 24.2% Riesling and 3.4% Gewürztraminer. The wine begins with aromas of peach and pear. The palate is a medley of tropical fruit flavours. The residual sweetness is balanced with bright acidity, allowing the wine to finish crisply. There is a hint of spice on the finish. 88.   

Harper’s Trail Pinot Gris 2018 ($16.99 for 479 cases). The wine begins with aromas of pear, melon, citrus and apple. On the palate, the wine is crisp, with a spine of minerality. It has flavours of pear and apple. The finish is dry. 90.

Harper’s Trail Pioneer Block Riesling 2018 ($18.29 for 429 cases). The wine begins with aromas of lemon, lime and green apple which are echoed on the palate. The flavours are fresh and zesty, reflecting the bracing acidity (10 grams) that balances the residual sugar (16.7 grams). The wine will age very well; in fact, it should be cellared for another year or two to reveal everything that is going on in the bottle. 91.

Harper’s Trail Silver Mane Block Riesling ($18.29 for 828 cases). The wine begins with aromas of lemon, lime and pineapple. The palate reveals layers of tropical fruit flavours framed by bright but balanced acidity (10 grams of acid and almost 20 grams of residual sugar). The mineral notes of the terroir define the finish. This is an even better candidate for aging than its mate. 92.

Harper’s Trail Rosé 2018 ($16.99 for 1,020 cases). This is 97% Pinot Gris and 3% Cabernet Franc. The hue is fashionably pale., The wine has aromas and flavours of strawberry. The finish is crisp and dry. It is amazing how the splash of Cabernet Franc defines this refreshing wine. 90.

Harper’s Trail Sparkling Chardonnay 2016 ($26 for 240 cases). This is a traditional method sparkling wine. In the glass, there is a lively display of bubbles. The wine has aromas of citrus and apple mingled with a delicate note of brioche and almond. Creamy on the palate, the wine has flavours of citrus. The finish is crisp, dry and refreshingly clean because the fruit and not the lees flavour is dominant. 91.