Black Market finds a home of its own

Photo: Black Market's Rob Hammersley 

Within weeks of buying a Kaleden vineyard for his Black Market Wine Co., Rob Hammersley had a sign at the gate, 198 Spruce Avenue, announcing a planned 2019 opening.

It is a sign of how anxious he and Michelle Shewchuk, his partner, are to graduate from virtual winery status to a land-based winery. Black Market has made its wines since 2012 at BC Wine Studio, a custom crush facility at Okanagan Falls. It was a way for getting into wine production without committing too much capital.

When Black Market had established its brand, the owners, who had been looking for vineyard property almost two years, were ready for the next step. Kaleden was high on their list of locations.

“We rented a house here for a vacation, eight or nine years ago,” Rob says. “Since then, we have been in love with Kaleden. It’s like the last frontier in the Okanagan. If you think of the regions where there are vineyards and good potential, everything else is already fairly well built out. It’s a fantastic area for growing grapes – one of the best in the area.”

They have named the property Conviction Ridge Vineyard. “We finally have the conviction to do this,” Rob says. Currently residents of Calgary, Rob and Michelle are making plans to move to the Okanagan next year. Now that they have to farm a 4½ acre vineyard, commuting from Calgary no longer will be an option.

Michelle is an Air Canada airline flight attendant (and will continue with her career) while Rob, an accountant and business evaluator, expects to become a fulltime grape grower and vintner next year.

Both were born in Winnipeg (Rob in 1971, Michelle in 1974) and they met while at university. Their interest in wine took off when they joined an informal wine tasting group. After university, they worked three years in Japan as English teachers. There, they fostered a love of travel that has never left them. “It was a defining experience for us,” Rob says. “We travelled a lot. Michelle has travelled her whole life; not so much me.”

They have wanted their own winery for some time. Rob’s judgment as a business evaluator guided the hard-headed decision to start with Black Market under the tutelage of BC Wine Studio before risking capital on land and buildings. “From my perspective, the best way to manage the risk of moving into a fairly crowded [wine] market is to get the market space first and work backwards,” Rob explains.

The retired owner of what is now Conviction Ridge Vineyard was a long-time grower for Gray Monk, (as are numerous other Kaleden vineyard owners). The vineyard was planted about 35 years ago, initially entirely with Bacchus. About 20 years ago, half was grafted to Merlot. A small block of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris is about five years old.

Rob had never before made wine with Bacchus but, after picking the brains of other Bacchus producers, quickly figured out how to fold the varietal into his portfolio. An early pick is destined for a traditional method sparkling wine. Most of the rest – he did sell some fruit – is likely to be added to Black Market’s top-selling white blend, Secret Society.

Because he did not take over Conviction Ridge until August, Rob had not time to convert one of the buildings on the property for wine processing. He made the 2018 vintage at BC Wine Studio.

“If all goes according to plan, we will have a new building next year,” Rob said last month. “All of our equipment is either here already or en route. We ordered in May and April. At one point, we thought we would be able to do production here this year.”

By securing a license for Black Market’s winery and tasting room, Rob expects to achieve a significant improvement in his winery’s economics.

“Our first vintage was 200 cases. Last year, we produced just over 1,000 cases,” he says. “This year it will be about 1,600 cases. There will be significant growth every year once we have a tasting room to generate some volume. Our goal is that this facility would produce in the 5,000 – 6,000 case range.”

He will continue to purchase grapes, since Conviction Ridge does not grow most of the varietals Black Market has in its portfolio. For example, the vineyard’s Merlot is only one of the varietals required for The Syndicate, the winery’s Bordeaux red blend. Similarly, he needs to buy Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc for Collusion, the winery’s white Bordeaux blend.

“As far as reds go, Syrah is where my passion lies,” Rob says. During his enology course, he did a research paper comparing growing conditions of Côte Roti in the Rhône with the Okanagan. He concluded that the wide temperature range between the Okanagan’s hot days and cool nights help make Okanagan Syrah distinctive.

Black Market’s portfolio is tightly focussed. Rob is tempted to add a Gewürztraminer because he has a good source of fruit. And when he finds an exceptional barrel or two in a vintage, he produces small lots which are offered first to Black Market’s wine club. Current examples are a 2017 Sémillon (100 cases only) and a 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (not yet released).

Here are notes on Black Market’s wines. The wines are available on line. As well, the winery's website lists the numerous wine stores and restaurants that carry Black Market.

 Black Market Sémillon 2017 ($26). Barrel-fermented in neutral oak, this is a concentrated dry white with aromas and flavours of citrus and a backbone of minerality. 90.  

Black Market Collusion 2017 ($24). This is typically a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon. Aged in barrels for five months, it is a crisp wine with aromas of lime and lemon. That is echoed on the palate, along with herbal notes that give the wine great complexity. 91.

Black Market Secret Society 2017 ($22). The blend has varied over the vintages but the profile has been similar: a dry white aromatic wine. This vintage is about 60% Gewürztraminer, with Muscat and Sauvignon Blanc. It begins with aromas of rose petals and spice. It is juicy on the palate with tropical fruit flavours. 90.

Black Market Syrah 2016 ($35). This begins with aromas of black cherry. On the palate, the deli meat flavours mingle with black cherry and pepper. The firm texture indicates that this wine should be cellared a few more years. 90-92.

Black Market The Syndicate 2015 ($30). The blend is 31% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Petit Verdot. Perhaps the latter varietal defines this wine, give it a dark colour, a dense texture and a floral aroma. There is also a note of cassis and black cherry on the nose. On the palate, the black currant and cherry flavours mingle with fig, spice and vanilla. 91.

Black Market The Syndicate 2016 (tank sample). This is a blend of 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot. This wine has the plumpness of ripe Merlot and the brambly aromas and flavours of Cabernet Franc. There are also flavours of cherry and blueberry with a touch of mocha on the finish. It is different from the previous vintage but is equally interesting. 91.

Black Market Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Est. $40). This wine has aromas and flavours of cassis, black cherry, dark chocolate and tobacco. Firm and rich in texture, this wine will blossom with another five years in the bottle. 91-93.