Bordertown's aggressive growth new includes cider

 Photo: Bordertown's Mohan Gill

Mohan Gill, the proprietor of Bordertown Vineyards at Osoyoos, was ecstatic at how Bordertown’s wine fared at the recent Canadian Wine Align Awards.

“You could have knocked us over with a feather,” he declared on the winery website.

The winery came away with four gold medals and one silver medal. The winners:

Bordertown 2015 Cabernet Franc Reserve: Gold
Bordertown 2015 Living Desert Red: Gold
Bordertown 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon: Gold
Bordertown 2015 Merlot: Gold
Bordertown 2015 Merlot Reserve: Silver

I have had the opportunity to taste these and other Bordertown wines recently. My reviews follow.

Since opening in 2015, Bordertown has been on an aggressive growth strategy. Its first commercial vintage, some 3,000 cases, was in 2013. Last year, the winery produced 13,500 cases of wine. The target, according to Mohan, is 40,000 cases.

Mohan started planting grapes in 2005. Today, he (and a brother) have 65 acres of vineyard near Osoyoos and another 45 acres at Peachland. These produce a broad range of varietals, even including Grüner Veltliner.

Born in India in 1976, Mohan came to the Okanagan with his parents in 1993. “I went to Oliver Secondary School,” he summarizes his biography. “Then I started working.”

Clearly, he continues to work hard. Currently, the winery is more than doubling its production and storage facilities.

One reason is that Bordertown is expanding into apple cider production. “We have a farm in Peachland where we grow mostly apples, grapes and cherries,” Mohan says. “Because we have our own packing line for apples, we always have extra apples – some that are a smaller size or low in colour. We can use those for cider apples.”

While Daniel Bontorin is Bordertown’s consulting winemaker, Mohan has retained Mark Simpson of BC Wine Studio to make the cider, reasoning that Mark’s extensive experience as a beer maker should translate to cider production.

Here are notes on the current releases from Bordertown.

Bordertown Pinot Gris 2017 ($17.86). This wine begins with aromas of pear. On the palate, there is an appealing medley of fruit flavours including citrus and pear. The finish lingers. 91.

Bordertown Chardonnay 2016 ($24.11). This wine went through malolactic fermentation and was aged eight months in French oak. In the glass, the wine has a light golden hue and rich aromas, mingling orange and butterscotch.  On the palate, the fruit is exuberant, with mingled marmalade flavours. Good acidity keeps the wine refreshing. The finish is dry with just a subtle hint of oak framing the fruit. 90.

Bordertown Grüner Veltliner 2016 ($19.64). The wine begins with aromas of herbs and fresh hay. On the palate, there are flavours of quince and melon. The wine is crisp and dry on the finish. 89.

Bordertown Cabernet Franc Rosé 2017 ($20.54). If colour matters in a rosé, the winery has nailed it. The presentation in the glass sets up the expectation of lots of flavour. It has a lovely shade of pink, not the washed-out pink that has become fashionable. It has aromas of watermelon and strawberry, leading to flavours of strawberry and pink grapefruit. The finish is crisp and dry. The imperceptible residual sugar helps lift the refreshing fruitiness. 91.

Bordertown Merlot 2015 ($20.54). This wine begins with aromas of cassis and cherry. On the palate, there are flavours of black currant and black cherry with a hint of mint. For a big wine (14.9% alcohol) from the 2015 vintage, the flavours and texture are remarkably bright and subtle, showing the Okanagan’s ability to retain acidity even in a warm year. 90.

Bordertown Reserve Merlot 2015 ($N/A). This dark wine begins with aromas of cassis and sandalwood. The fruit on the palate – plum and black cherry mingled with                  spice – is intense and concentrated. This is a ripe, swaggering and generous Merlot. 93.

Bordertown Cabernet Franc 2016 ($21.43). This deeply coloured red has aromas of blackberries and black cherries subtly mingled with spice. On the palate, the richly textured wine has flavours of black cherry, tobacco, dark chocolate and herbs. The long ripe tannins give the wine drinkability now but also the ability to cellar well for at least five years. 91.

Bordertown Cabernet Franc Reserve 2016 ($N/A). This bold, brambly red begins with powerful aromas of blackberry and spice, leading to dark berry flavours with a hint of mint. The finish is long and satisfying. 92.

Bordertown Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ($31.25). This dark wine begins with a dramatic aroma of cassis, black cherry and vanilla and spice. The flavours are bold and ripe, showing spicy cherry and currants. The sweet fruit is framed superbly with oak. Long ripe tannins gave the wine the appeal of early drinkability but the wine will age well for at least five years. 92.

Bordertown Living Desert Red 2015 ($22.32). This is a blend of 61% Cabernet Franc, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot. Each varietal was aged separately in French oak prior to blending. Aromas of sweet berries – blueberries, blackberries and black cherries mingled with cassis – jump from the glass. Those fruits are echoed on the palate, subtly framed by oak. The flavours are profound and the finish is persistent. 93.