Several years ago, a wine agent named Richard Massey began
organizing Vancouver Island winemakers, cider makers and distillers to host a
taste every spring in Vancouver.
The most recent one is now concluded and it was a
revelation. I don’t remember so many consistently good wines at previous
tastings. I was generous in my scores, as a result.
The island has benefitted from a string of good vintages.
Secondly, recent investment there in winemaking and viticulture shows,
complementing the growing experience of the winemakers.
Because most of the producers are comparatively small, it
can be hard to find the wines off the island. But they all have tasting rooms.
Now that ferry fares are little more than the cost of gas for an Okanagan trip,
perhaps it is time for a bit of island wine touring.
This week’s three-hour tasting was not quite long enough. I
missed a couple of wineries and I had no time for distillers, cideries and
meaderies. There is an astonishing number of spirit producers now on the island
and it seems they also have tasting rooms.
If you go, here are wineries to look up.
Alderlea Vineyards
near Duncan was acquired last spring by Julie Powell and Zachary Brown. On
their business cards, they both call themselves proprietor and winemaker.
They have taken over a winery that was opened in 1998 by
Roger Dosman. Alderlea wines had already achieved a good reputation because
Roger was meticulous both in the cellar and, particularly, in the vineyard.
Julie and Zachary benefit from a mature and healthy vineyard. They continue to
farm it sustainably, without chemical pesticides or herbicides. The wines are
all vegan.
Alderlea Bacchus 2017
($20.25 for 320 cases). The vines are “midway through their third decade,” the
winery says. The grapes are crushed when they are still cold and the
fermentation is long and cool (never above 12C) to preserve the aromas and
flavours. The wine is crisp, with floral and spicy aromas and flavours of lime
and kiwi. 90.
Alderlea Sauvignon
Blanc 2017 ($23.70 for 300 cases). This is not an easy grape to grow on the
island. Alderlea prides itself in having the largest block in the Cowichan
Valley; and has a few more rows coming into production this year. Think of this
wine as a Sancerre white – herbal on the nose with flavours of green apples and
lime. The finish is crisp. 91.
Alderlea Pinot Gris
2017 ($22.55 for 400 cases). Twenty-six hours of skin contact has given
this wine a slight blush and lifted the aromas and flavours. There are hints of
strawberry and mango on the palate. The finish is crisp. 90.
Alderlea Pinot Noir
2015 ($25.40 for 200 cases). The wine is intense and complex, with aromas
and flavours of cherry, blackberry and spice. The grapes are from the
second-oldest Pinot Noir block on Vancouver Island. The complexity is the
result of the vineyard having six clones – four Dijon clones and two Alsace
clones. 92.
Alderlea Clarinet
2015 ($23.70 for 550 cases). The grape here is Maréchal Foch. Roger Dosman
once explained he called the wine Clarinet “because it is too good to be called
Maréchal Foch.” The wine was aged on lees for 18 months in neutral French oak
which accounts for the soft and ripe tannin structure. It has aromas of fig and
cherry, leading to flavours of black cherries and blackberries. 90.
Alderlea Merlot 2015
($25.40 for 100 cases). Merlot vines are rare on Vancouver Island because the
vineyards seldom get the heat units to ripen it. Alderlea must have its vines
in a hot spot and perhaps tents them to accelerate their maturity. As well,
2015 was a hot vintage. This delicious
wine begins with aromas of cassis that lead to flavours of black currant,
blueberry and cherry. 90.
Alderlea Matrix 2014 ($23.70
for 150 cases). This is a blend of Cabernet Foch and Cabernet Libre with some
Agria and, for the first time in 2014, 15% Merlot. Also in 2014, 30% new French
oak was used in aging the wine, perhaps to tame the rustic personality of the
hybrids. In succeeding vintages, more Merlot and new French oak have been used;
in 2017, five percent aromatic whites were co-fermented with the red varieties.
The wine has aromas and flavours of blueberry, black currants, prune and coffee. 89.
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Averill Creek Vineyard was opened in 2006 just north of Duncan by
Andy Johnson below), a former doctor, and his wife, Wendy. They farm a fairly large vineyard, with Pinot Noir comprising the largest portion of the plantings.
Andy’s ambition is to make one of Canada’s best Pinot Noirs. The wines are all
well-made.
Averill Creek Charme De L’ile NV ($23.78). Averill Creek is one of
several Vancouver Island that produce popular Charmat method sparkling wines
and sell them under the Charme De L’ile brand. This is made with Pinot Noir and
Pinot Gris. It is a crisp, refreshing sparkling wine with notes of citrus and
apple. 90
Averill Creek Pinot Grigio 2017 ($21.48 for 1,800 cases). This is a
light, lively, refreshing with aromas
and flavours of citrus and peach. 91.
Averill Creek Pinot Noir 2015 ($26.08). This elegant wine dances
lightly across the palate, with aromas and flavours of cherry and strawberry.
The refreshing fruit flavours linger. 90.
Averill Creek Pinot Noir 2014 Somenos Series ($44.48 for 300 cases).
This is a full-bodied Pinot Noir, with aromas of cherry and toasted oak, echoed
on the palate. The long finish has notes of mocha and spice. 92.
Averill Creek Prevost 2014 ($21.48 for 2,000 cases). The winery
describes this as its “Cowichan claret.” It is a blend of 60% Maréchal Foch,
25% Cabernet Libre, 10% Cabernet Foch and 5% Merlot. The soft, ripe tannins
make this an easy-drinking red. It has aromas and flavours of black cherry,
plum and fig with notes of chocolate on the finish. 90.
Averill Creek Cowichan Tawny NV ($30.60 for 375 ml). This is a fortified blackberry “port” done in
the solera style to develop more complexity. Andy Johnston calls it “Christmas
cake” because the wine is redolent with spicy fruitcake flavours. 90.
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Blue Grouse Estate Winery, which opened in 1993, is where one-time
veterinarian Hans Kiltz made about 20 vintages, all of them interesting. When
he retired, the winery was purchased by Paul Brunner, a mining engineer and a
wine enthusiast. Bailey Williamson, (right) a seasoned Okanagan winemaker, was
recruited to manage the cellar. Under new ownership, the winery has continually
expanded. The spectacularly designed winery now is the showpiece in the
Cowichan Valley.
Blue Grouse has just cleared more of
its forested site to plant more vines. The original 8½-acre vineyard had
already been doubled to 15 acres and will be doubled again. The vineyard expansion
increases the winery’s supply of estate-grown fruit. A full production, the
vineyard should support 8,000 cases.
Blue Grouse Paula Sparkling 2014 ($30 for 30 cases). This
traditional method sparkling wine is a blend of Müller Thurgau, Ortega, Pinot
Auxerrois and Riesling. The wine is crisp, with citrus and apple flavours
mingled with toasty notes. The wine is creamy on the palate but crisp on the
finish. 90.
Blue Grouse Quill Pinot Gris 2017 ($20). Quill means the wine
partly or wholly with purchased fruit. This is a fine textural wine with aromas
and flavours of pear and citrus. 88.
Blue Grouse Estate Pinot Gris 2017 ($22). By fermenting 20% of this
in French oak, Bailey has added layers of texture and flavour. It still retains
the classic notes of pear, apple and citrus. 91.
Blue Grouse Quill Pinot Noir 2015 ($24). The grapes are from
another Cowichan Valley vineyard. The wine, fermented with wild yeast, is juicy
with silky tannins and flavours of cherry. 89.
Blue Grouse Estate Pinot Noir 2015 ($27). The winery web site says
this is sold out. If you have some, lay it down for several more years, for it
has only just begun to develop to its potential. There is plenty of cherry on
the nose and palate. 91.
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Emandare Vineyard is an exciting winery that opened near Duncan in
2015 after Mike and Robin Nierychlo, (below) in 2013, bought an 8.5-acre dry-farmed
vineyard that had fallen into neglect. They have turned the vineyard around and
now make interesting wines. The vineyard had been planted somewhat
eclectically, allowing Mike to make some unusual field blends. He has now begun
to rationalize to vineyard to get rid of such late-ripening varieties as
Carménère.
Emandare Siegerrebe Gewürztraminer 2016 ($23). This is a field
blend of 63% Siegerrebe and 37% Gewürztraminer. The wine begins with floral and
spicy aromas that lead to flavours of citrus and green apple. It is crisp on
the finish. 90.
Emandare Sauvignon Blanc 2017 ($30). Emandare has the oldest block
of Sauvignon Blanc on Vancouver Island (coming up to 18 years). The wine begins
with aromas of lime, continuing to a complex bouquet of melon, gooseberry and
citrus flavours. 91.
Emandare Rosé 2017 ($25). This is another field blend: 64% Maréchal
Foch, 19% Tempranillo, 10% Siegerrebe, 4% Malbec and 3% Carménère. The wine is juicy on the palate, with a bowl
full of fruit flavours – raspberry, strawberry, watermelon and cranberry. The
finish dry and crisp. 90.
Emandare Clara 2017 ($28 for 375 ml). Mike and Robin called this
wine Clara to celebrate the birth of their daughter. It is a back-sweetened
Siegerrebe dessert wine, hitting just the right note of sweetness that is
splendidly balanced with acidity. It is delicately aromatic with flavours of
lime. 90.
Emandare Pinot Noir 2015 ($45). This wine was aged in neutral oak
to preserve the bright fruit flavours that the vineyard provides. The wine has
flavours of cherry, raspberry and cranberry. The texture is still firm enough
to suggest the wine has a few years of potential to develop further in the
bottle. 90.
Emandare Maréchal-Cabernet Foch 2016
($25). This is another field blend: 74% Maréchal Foch and 26% Cabernet Foch.
The long ripe tannins give this wine a generous texture. It has flavours of
black cherry, blueberry and plum. 90.
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40 Knots Vineyard and Estate Winery, which is located within
earshot of the Comox air base, was acquired in 2014 by Brenda Hetman-Craig and
her husband, Layne, (below) from founder Bill Hamilton. They have re-energized the
winery, now one of the island’s most popular tasting rooms. They have relied on
Okanagan consulting winemakers Matt Dumayne and, more recently, Michael Bartier
to make their wines.
40 Knots Chardonnay 2017 (tank sample). This wine display’s Michael
Bartier’s mastery of this varietal. This wine is brimming with flavours of
apple and citrus. 90.
40 Knots Pinot Gris 2017 (tank sample).
The wine hits the palate with a fleshy texture and then releases layers of pear
and citrus flavours. 91.
40 Knots White Seas 2017 ($19.90). This
is also Pinot Gris, made in a refreshing fruity style with flavours of citrus
and lychee. The finish is crisp. 90.
40 Knots Fallen Apple 2017 ($21.90).
This is a delightful dessert wine with 15% alcohol. The rich apple flavours
linger for a long time. 88.
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Kukatás Wines is new to the island. It is a label owned by Daniel
Dragert and his winemaking partner, Mira Tusz (below). Daniel is the winemaker at
Averill Creek. The bulk of the grapes come from the three acres of Pinot Noir
and Ortega in the Saanich Peninsula that formerly supported a winery called Domaine
Rochette. Daniel and Mira’s winemaking style produces quite complex wines.
The name of this winery reflects
the owners’ shared Hungarian heritage. The word, they explain means “research,
inquisition, exploration or quest.” To buy these wines, call the producers at
(250) 858-2339. And keep an eye out for a traditional method sparkling wine
which is in progress.
Kukatás Ortega 2015 ($18.75 wholesale for 125 cases). This savoury
white was fermented with wild yeast, one-third in barrel, two-thirds in
stainless steel. There are herbal and floral aromas leading to a rich palate
with flavours of citrus. The finish is dry. 90.
Kukatás Pinot Gris 2016 ($18.75 wholesale for 60 cases). This wine
was barrel-fermented with natural yeast. It was allowed to go through
malolactic fermentation and has extended lees contact. The result is a richly
textured wine with flavours of ripe pear and apple, along with a hint of
vanilla. 91.
Kukatás Rosé 2015 ($18.75 for 170 cases). This wine counters the
usual rule that rosé wines are not made to be aged. Mira and Daniel maintain
this wine has an aging potential of 10 years, or more. The wine is made with
Pinot Noir. The grapes had four days on the skins and were barrel-fermented in
French oak with wild yeast. A deep-coloured rosé, it has flavours of cherry and
ripe strawberry. 91.
Kukatás Pinot Noir Whole Bunches 2016 ($NA). This wine has the texture to develop well in
the bottle for many years. It is an intense wine, with aromas and flavours of
cherry. 90.
Kukatás Pinot Noir 2016 ($NA). This is a bold, deeply flavoured
Pinot Noir with aromas and flavours of cherry and vanilla. 91.
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Rathjen Cellars is a new winery getting ready to open this summer
in the Saanich Peninsula. Vintner Mike Rathjen has, as he puts it, “inherited”
vineyards that supplied two Saanich wineries, Dragonfly Hill Vineyard and the
now-closed Starling Lane Winery. He also took over Dragonfly Hill’s license and
has been operating from there while he completes his own facility nearby.
Rathjen manages three other Saanich vineyards, along with his own 2 ½ acre
vineyard planted in 2016. The wines already are in some private wine stores and restaurants; and are available directly from the vintner at 778-668-9588 or sales@rathjencellars.com.
He was mentored in winemaking with his brother-in-law, Mike Nierychlo. When he started making wine in his
Victoria home, he referred to his cellar as the wine bunker. He appropriated the
name for two of the labels.
Rathjen Cellars Wine Bunker White 2016 ($20). This is a blend of
Schönburger, Epicure and Petit Milo. The aromatics of the Schönburger lift the
nose of a wine that is a mouth full of tropical fruit flavours. 89.
Rathjen Cellars Pinot Gris 2016 ($30). This crisp, refreshing white
has aromas and flavours of citrus, pear and apple. 90.
Rathjen Cellars Rosé 2016 ($20). This is a blend of 2/3 Gamay Noir
and 1/3 Pinot Noir. A dry wine, it has a delicate rose petal hue and aromas and
flavours of raspberry. 90.
Rathjen Cellars Wine Bunker Red 2015 ($22). This full-bodied red blend
is 50% Gamay Noir, 25% Pinot Noir and 25% Maréchal Foch. It has flavours of
plum and black cherry with a hint of coffee and chocolate. 90.
Rathjen Cellars Pinot Noir 2015 ($35). The wine is made with four
clones of Pinot Noir (not identified). The flavours are bright, with notes of
cherry, and the wine has a silky texture. 91.
---------------------------------------------------
Salt Spring Vineyards and Winery, which opened in 2003, is operated
by two doctors, Joanne and Devlin McIntyre (below). They can claim to be the oldest
winery on Salt Spring Island because, as the story goes, the inspector dropped
off their license before going next door to Garry Oaks Vineyards.
Salt Spring Karma 2014 ($33.90). This is a traditional method
sparkling wine made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wine’s instant appeal
begins with its creamy impact on the palate, where flavours of apple mingle
with toasty lees. 92.
Salt Spring Pinot Gris 2017 ($20.90). One-third of the blend was
lightly oak-aged for texture. The wine is still crisp, with flavours of citrus
and pear. 90.
Salt Spring Rosé 2017 ($18.40). Made with Pinot Noir, the wine has
a pale rose petal hue. It has aromas and flavours of raspberry and strawberry,
with a crisp, refreshing finish. 90.
Salt Spring Millotage 2017 ($21.75). This proprietary red is a
blend of Leon Millot and Pinot Noir. The wine has a juicy texture, with
flavours of plum and cherry. 90.
Salt Spring Blackberry O.M.G. NV ($20.87). The winery says that
there is a pound of wild blackberries in each bottle. You can believe it when
the berry flavours explode from the glass and on the palate. 91.
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Venturi Schulze Vineyards was opened in 1993 by Giordano Venturi
and his partner, Marilyn Schulze. They are noted for their meticulous
viticulture as well as for Giordano’s creativity in the cellar. Among the
legendary products here is a very fine balsamic vinegar.
Venturi Schulze Madeleine Sylvaner 2014 ($15.79). This is a bargain
for a wine almost sold out. With good acidity, it has aromas and tangy flavours
of pears and green apples. 88.
Venturi Schulze Brut Naturel 2013 ($32.10). This is a traditional
method wine made from Auxerrois grapes. It begins with aromas of herbs mingled
with toasty lees; this is echoed on the palate. The finish is crisp. 90.
Venturi Schulze Millefiore 2014 ($23.10). The name means one
thousand flowers. The wine is a blend of Siegerrebe and Ortega. It delivers a
bowl of tropical fruit flavours with spice and herbs on the dry finish. 90.
Venturi Schulze Siegerrebe 2016 ($20.99). This is a refreshing
wine, with aromas of spice and herbs leading to intense fruity flavours (lime,
lychee). 91.
Venturi Schulze Pinot Gris 2016 ($24.99). Because the ferment
stopped when it decided it was finished, there is a slight amount of residual
sugar here. It is delicious, with peachy flavours. 90.
Venturi Schulze Raven The Thief 2016 ($29.99). This is a blend of
Zweigelt and Pinot Noir, a really good pairing. The wine is juicy and brimming
with red berry flavours (cherry, cranberry) and plum. The wine was named for a
raven in the vineyard that was stealing eggs. 90.
Venturi Schulze Pinot Noir 2014 ($45.10). This wine is from one of
the island’s best recent vintages. It is a rich wine, with cherry and plum
flavours blended with notes of oak and spice. 91.
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